This place was so good, that we returned for dinner the same day.
Korta Konoba (konoba means local restaurant), at Poljana Grgura Ninskog 3, serving authentic Dalmatian dishes, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
This restaurant is in an enclosed square up a few steps just to the right of the Silver Gate as you enter the old palace-city through that gate.
We were looking for a place for lunch and decided to get off the main streets and squares, so we randomly happened on this square. But, it was a great find for many reasons: the food and service were great, it was quieter and less crowded, and the couple of cafes in the square all had ceiling fans going—a real boon in the summer heat.
The food genuinely was local and different to other dishes we’d had up to then in Croatia. Our waiters (at lunch and then at dinner) were very happy to try and explain the dishes and the ingredients to us, and to tell us about the special wines, so we felt we really did learn something new about Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine.
At lunch, for appetizers Nath and Sonya shared a bowl of fish soup (excellent, with plenty of shellfish);
Rod and I shared a Dalmatian prosciutto plate, served with sea fennel, a first for us (Dalmatinski prsut). The sea fennel was interesting and tasty—a cross between a seaweed and a fresh green vegetable.
Following these appetizers, we each had a Palace Salad (fresh and substantial, with feta cheese, egg and fresh anchovies). The meal was served with homemade bread—it’s very nice and less salty but dries out quickly, so it’s served in a hessian (I think) bag. Sonya had a beer; Nath, Rod and I a large bottle of water. Afterwards, we had double espressos and Nath had tea and a small dessert called a “fig pillow”. The total for all that was 487 kuna (about US$70).
In the evening, we wandered around looking at various restaurants and their menus. Many looked pretty good, but somehow the Korta seemed more compelling, so we decided to return there. It was a great decision!
We got there reasonably early (7:30pm) so we easily got a table and the service was great again. Rod and I had a bottle of excellent very local wine. It was called Zlahtina Toljanic, and comes from Kvarner, the wine-growing hills of the island of Krk, not far off the coast from here. It cost 110 kuna in the restaurant (about US$16). The Zlahtina grape is found only on the island of Krk.
The other writing on the wine label is Glagolitic/old Croatian. This writing was also found on a stone on Krk. (I also wrote about this language when we found a panel in the Cathedral in Zagreb. See here https://easterneuropetrip.wordpress.com/2016/08/24/zagreb-more-than-a-gorgeous-cathedral/ )
The menu at Korta is in both Croatian and English luckily. But, it’s fun to try and figure out the Croatian words too, so I’ve put a few in here.
For the dinner meal we focused mainly on seafood, as we were at the sea after all! For appetizers, Nath and Sonya shared a mixed seashells soup (as they called it), again, as it was so good (Juha od mijesane skoljki). They said it was the best fish soup they’d ever had. Rod and I shared a seasonal salad, which was very similar to the Palace salad at lunch, so was plenty for two.
Bread came in a bag again—a nice touch, and perhaps helps to keep it moister for longer.
For the main dishes: Rod had Brodetto (Brudet od mijesanih glavonuzaca), which is a crustacean stew (see below):
I had Popara odd mijesane ribe, a fish stew with noodles (see below);
Nath chose Lignja na Dalmatinskoj mjesavini—squid stuffed with a barley mix served with Dalmatian mixed vegetables (see below);
Sonya had Prodimljen riba na motru—smoked fish on sea fennel (below).
A memorable meal in all ways. I hope that we can get back to Split one day—and to other places in Croatia, of course.