If you carry on from Peristyle through the Vestibule along a narrow street leading towards the sea side you’ll come to the Ethnographic Museum of Split, and further round gets you on a walkway with great views down onto the ruins of the old palace, especially the cellars.
The Ethnographic Museum (10kn per adult) is a very nice museum in a shell of an old part of the palace with the interior renovated/remodeled for a museum. It’s on 2 floors with lots of inter-leading rooms.
Noticeable were an old press and some pottery downstairs, plus some photos of cottages and villagers from about 100 years ago. Upstairs, there’s an outstanding collection of old folk costumes, very elaborately decorated, some rather reminiscent of those from Greece and Turkey. Some have beautiful patterns made from cowrie shells, many have gorgeous embroidery, and some are draped with medals. There’s also some lovely old jewellery, lacework, and a small selection of special chairs with rounded seats and 3 legs.
These kinds of chairs were part of the traditional culture of Dalmatia from the 17th to early 20th centuries. The chair with the semi-circular seat, usually with three angled legs and frequently a carved back, is connected with the tradition of cattle-raising. These chairs were often called “My Grandfather’s Chair’, as they usually belonged to the head of the family in big family communities. Honored guests were also allowed to use them. Very few of these chairs are made or used these days.
The museum is well worth an hour or two.
The museum terrace has wonderful views out, over the Old Town on the one side and down to the port on the other. We enjoyed watching some of the huge Jadrolinija cruise ships come in and leave.